Tuesday 10 June 2014

Another woven tee (with fit improvement!)

This is Ottobre 02-2014-05, the woven tee that I made the blobby polka dot top from a few days ago.
Ottobre 02-2014-05 "Painted Roses" woven tee
Why do I always end up with the top askew on my body when I take photos? I am cursed! The hem is straight, I swear, it looks crooked because it's sitting a bit off to one side on my shoulders, as you can see. I mean, in normal wear, nobody would even notice that at all, but when I'm posting photos of things I have made I feel like other sewing readers are going HA, HER HEMS ARE SO NOT STRAIGHT. This is in spite of the fact that I have not, myself EVER scrutinized anyone's posted photos to the extent that I would notice whether or not the hems are straight. Note to self: most people don't care.

Lengthy permabulation on the topic of my crappy photo skills aside, the main thing to say about this top is LOL TENTACLES. No, wait, it's not. I mean, also LOL TENTACLES, because halfway through making this top I suddenly worried that the paisley swirly bits were a little more tentacle-like than I was entirely happy with. But actually, the main thing to say is that this is the pattern with a tiny little 1.5cm FBA, and it seems to have made quite a lot of difference. In an attempt to demonstrate the fit improvement, I tried to take a photo in the same position, but ended up with this highly unnatural and uncomfortable looking pose instead. Still, you can kind of almost see, despite the distracting paisley/floral/tentacle pattern: no drag lines! No distortion of the side seam! Hurrah!


I left the width in the waist and hip because as I said in my review of the pattern, I don't find the hip width at all generous in this pattern. However, this does make it really quite boxy and waist-disguising. There's definitely room for a little subtle waist definition.

The fabric by the way, is another highly drapy thing that is only marginally more inclined to take a crease than the polka dot fabric. It's a crinkle cotton mix, very lightweight and barely opaque. It's one of the few things in my stash with a really big, obnoxious pattern and I therefore was highly dubious I'd ever use it even though I have loads. It was actually cut out to go with my new green shorts, but they are in a cupboard waiting to see if time makes me any more fond of them right now, so I had to try on my top with a pair of beige linen trousers from LTS. As before I got this top out of exactly 1m, including the bias tape for the neckline and thus it set me back about £3 in fabric. I fancied up the inside only a little bit: french seams through the body except the sleeves heads again. I probably should learn how to do french seams with sleeves at some point, it would look prettier.

In conclusion: Ottobre 02-2014-05 goes to the top of my hit parade of TNTs, but MORE IMPORTANTLY, I now have the start of a tool I have wanted to develop for myself since I started garment sewing: a basic pattern with a bust dart that fits through the bust and upper shoulder. Expect to see an AWFUL lot of woven tops and shirts as a result of this innovation for the next several weeks! :D

6 comments:

  1. Congratulations! It's eye-opening to see what a big difference that such a small FBA made.

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    1. I know! Normally I am prone to thinking that with having a G-cup bust, I will need SEVERAL EXTRA YARDS on top of the normal pattern ease of space for it to help, but in this case just that little bit extra was enough. I actually think the thing that has REALLY helped, from an FBA perspective, is finding an angle and dart length that really seems to work for me. I had the dart positioned in the same place in the first version, but that PLUS the 1.5cm does seem to have done the trick.

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  2. Certainly never noticed the uneven arms or the tentacles - just what a lovely top and beautiful fabric you have. Great job. And the FBA made a big difference.

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    1. Thanks! It's amazing that such a small FBA can make such a big change to fit!

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  3. Lol. All I noticed was a really nice fitting top in a lovely colour and pattern!

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    1. Oh good, I won't be giving anyone nightmares of their blouses creeping out of their wardrobes to strange them with strange paisley tentacles then :D

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